Fabric Garment Bag Tutorial

Finished Garment Bag Measures about 34″ x 21″ by 2″ high.

Before beginning:

* You must know basic sewing techniques, how to make bias strips as well as know how to sew in a zipper.

* Be sure to read through the whole tutorial before you begin to sew. It always makes more sense after reading it through ahead of time.

* Unless otherwise stated in the tutorial use a 1/2″ sew seam and make sure you always start and finish your seams with a back-stitch.

* If you run into any problems or have any questions feel free to contact me at twolittlehooligans@yahoo.com. And please remember that all of my tutorials are for personal use only! That means you may not make any garment bags from this tutorial to sell. You may however use this tutorial to raise money for a charitable organization.

Fabrics Needed:

* 2 1/4 yards of an interior fabric

* 2 1/4 yards of an exterior fabric.

* 2 yards of batting

Just so you know, I did use four yards of fabric total but had very little left over. Plus I also up-cycled a shoulder strap from an old bag. So if you feel you can make the most of your fabric and will not need any extra fabric for a shoulder strap by all means, just buy 4 yards. To be on the safe side though I would recommend buying 4 1/2 yards total. I used a quilting cotton but you can also use a medium weight cotton fabric or any decor fabric. The fabrics that I am using for this project came from Fabri-Quilt and can be purchased here.

Notions Needed:

* Two 1″ D-rings with matching clasps (I up-cycled my D-rings and clasps from an older bag, but I have purchased D-rings in the past from this store and was very pleased.)

* Two 1 1/2″ D-rings with matching loop end clasps (You want to make sure the loop end is big enough to place a shoulder strap through if you wont be up-cycling them from another bag.)

* 1/2 yard of  1 1/2″ wide sew on Velcro

* Two 23″ separating zippers

* One 36″ separating zipper  Gather your fabrics and fold them so that the same side selvage edges fold on top of themselves and the raw edges met one end. Basically it is folded in the opposite direction of what it normally is when it comes off the bolt. Folded fabrics should measure about 44″ x 36″ now. Of course the measurements will be a little different if you purchased the 4 1/2 yards like suggested. Below is a quick sketch of how I cut out my fabric pieces.Cut out the following pieces:

* Two pieces that measure 35″ x 22″ from each fabric and batting. Round all of the corners. (main part of bag)

* Two pieces that measure 70″ x 3″ from each fabric and batting. (edges of bag)

* Two pieces that measure 13 1/2″ x 22″ from each fabric and batting. (pockets)

* One piece that measures 22″ x 3″ from each fabric and batting. (front of bag)

* Two pieces that measure 6″ x 3″ from each fabric and batting. (hanger flap)

* Two exterior pieces of  fabric that measure 7″ x 1 1/2″ (bias tape over hanger flap)

* Two pieces from exterior fabric that measure 22″ x 1 1/2″. (zipper bias tape)

** You will have a few smaller pieces to cut out later as well as make a shoulder strap piece. I personally up-cycled a shoulder strap from an older bag so I will not be showing you in this tutorial how to make one. Here is a great tutorial on how to make an adjustable shoulder strap if needed. Keep in mind that if you want to save time you may also use a cotton webbing for the shoulder strap or as well as with any of the D-rings, clasps or handles. **Ok, now that you have all of your fabric and notions together it is time to start sewing. I promise this bag is easy to make. Yes, this tutorial is super long but that is only because I try to show each and every step. Remember this tutorial is to show you how I made MY garment bag and you can make any changes you want to fit your needs better.Start by gathering one each of the 35″ x 22″ fabric and batting pieces.Working with all three pieces at the same time, measure 5″ in from the edge and cut. Now cut the remaining pieces exactly in half like shown below. These pieces will be used for the front portion of the bag. You know the part of a garment bag that and unzips so you can put your clothes inside?Gather your 36″ zipper. Also gather one exterior and batting piece from left side pile that you just cut in half and take one of the interior pieces from the pile on the right. You need to do this to make sure that the rounded edges line up once the zipper is sewn on. You will want to layer the fabrics like so: batting, exterior fabric right side up, zipper wrong side up (top of zipper should be on the left side), then place the interior fabric wrong side up. Pin zipper in place. Sew along zipper. Then sew along the short side that does not have the rounded edge. In the picture below it is on the left side.Turn right side out. Iron flat. With the top of your zipper still on the left side with the other two pieces of fabric and batting. This time layer like so: interior fabric right side up, zipper right side up, exterior fabric wrong side up, then batting.Pin zipper in place. Sew along zipper and short side that does not have rounded edge.Turn right side out and iron flat. This is what your piece should look like now.Top stitch along edges near zipper. Set aside.Gather the 5″ x 22″ pieces that you just cut as well as the three 22″ x 3″ pieces of fabric and batting. Pin opposite fabrics and batting in place like shown below. Make sure that you are not pinning to the rounded edges. Sew on pinned edges. Iron flat.Now you are going to pin the pieces together on the straight edges. Layer like so: batting, larger exterior fabric piece right side up, then interior fabric piece wrong side up. Sew along straight edge. Turn right side out and iron flat.Top stitch along  bottom edge.You now have the two front pieces of your bag done. Now you are going to make the little hanger flaps. You know the place where the hangers come out of the garment bag to be hung? Well I’m calling those hanger flaps in this tutorial. Gather the 6″ x 3″ pieces of fabric and batting.Layer fabrics like so: batting, exterior fabric right side up then interior fabric right side down. Sew along top and sides. Clip off corners.Turn right side out. Iron flat. Top stitch along top and edges. Set aside.Gather the 13 1/2″ x 22″ pieces of fabric and batting along with your 23″ zippers.Gather the two pieces of exterior fabric that measure 22″ x 1 1/2″. Make them into bias strips. Set aside. Now you are going to make the pocket pieces.Layer fabrics like so: batting, exterior fabric right side up, zipper right side down, then interior fabric wrong side up. Pin zipper in place. Sew in place. Repeat with the remaining fabrics and zipper. Top of zipper can be on either side this time.You should now have two pieces that look like this.Gather your 35″ x 22″ exterior piece of fabric and batting, the bias strips you just made along with your pocket pieces. You are going to make the back of the bag. You know the part of the garment bag that has the handles attached and has pockets?Lay the 35″ x 22″ piece of fabric flat with the batting underneath. Lay zippered pockets on top. Line up edges. Don’t worry about the squared edges of the pocket pieces, you will be rounding them in a bit.Take the bias strip and place the edge of the zipper inside of it then pin in place onto bag.Sew bias strip as close to the zipper as possible. Take your time. These stitches will be seen plus they will be holding the zipper in place. This is just a quick and easy way to cover up the zipper edges.Now lay the 35″ x 22″ interior piece of fabric on top of the back piece that you just made. Trim all around the outer edges to make sure they are even and straight. Round edges as well. Be careful when cutting around the zippers and now is a good time to hand stitch the teeth on the zippers closed.With the back piece still laying flat place the two front pieces on top. Line up all the edges. Make sure you overlap the top part of the front piece over the zippered part. This is how you will find out where to place the Velcro later on. Pin in place. Trim all of the edges. Again be careful near your zippers and hand stitch the teeth together.Grab your Velcro and cut it into two 7″ long pieces.Line up the hook piece of velcro under the flap of the top piece about 1″ in from the edge. Line it up so that they are even on the right and left side of where the zipper lays on the piece below. Now place the loop piece of Velcro onto the front piece of bag that lays underneath. Make sure you line it up so that the velcro works once sewn on. Pin and sew in place.Gather the two hanger flaps. Place them on the top edge of the front and back pieces of the bags. See picture below. Just make sure they line up evenly. Gather the two 1″ D-rings and matching clasps. Out of your scrap pieces of fabric make some tabs to attach the D-rings and clasps to. I think mine were about 5″ long so once looped through they are 2 1/2″ long. Pin your D-rings and clasps in place on the zippered pocket side. I placed mine about 6″ in from the ends on all four sides. Make sure you pin one D-ring and one clasp on the same side of bag. I know it is hard to see below but I messed with my placement of D-rings and clasps and I didn’t realized it until it was to late. So don’t refer to my picture below for placement, instead learn from my mistake. Sew in place close to edges. Set aside.Gather the two 70″ x 3″ pieces of interior and exterior fabrics and batting along with the front bag piece. Sew each of the fabric strips together on the ends to make one continuous strip. Your piece will be about 140″ long or so.Gather the front piece of your bag as well the 3 strips that you just made. Lay the front of your bag exterior fabric side up. Now take your exterior fabric strip and layer your batting strip underneath. With the right side of your exterior fabric strip start pinning  it to the top of your bag front piece. You want to start pinning in place on the middle of the hanger flap. At the same time pin the interior fabric strip to the bottom side of bag, right sides facing. Stop pinning when you have made it all the way around outer edge and your two strips are touching. You will have a bit of left over fabric so trim where the two fabrics meet. Now fold under the edges of all strip pieces 1/2″. Repeat another 1/2″ to cover up unfinished edge. You are doing this to cover up the unfinished edges on the strips. Make sure that the edges of the strips that are on the top of the bag line up exactly with the strip edges on the bottom of the bag . Top stitch ends of strips. Gather the two 7″ x 1 1/2″ pieces of fabric. Make them into bias strips. Take one of the bias strips and pin it over the unfinished edge of the hanger flap. Again this is so that you will not have any unfinished edges in the end. Sew bias tape in place as close to the edge as possible.  Now this is what the front of your bag should look like when it is all pinned in place. And the back.At this point you may want to switch to a different needle. The fabrics are becoming thicker and harder to sew through. Sew all around edges.Iron flat. This is what the front of your bag looks like now.The inside of your bag.Set the front of bag aside for now and gather the back of the bag that has the zippered pockets. You are going to want to make some handles for the bag as well as attach some D-rings for a shoulder strap to attach to.If you are going to make your handles just use your left over fabric that you cut off from the long strips.  Cut one strip about 30″ x 6″ from the exterior fabric and batting. Of course you can make the handles longer or even use some cotton webbing instead to save time.Sew into a tube. Turn right side out. Iron flat. Cut the tube into two pieces. Handles should now be about 15″ x 2″. Pin the handles onto the bag in the middle in between the two zippered pockets. I placed the end of my handles in about 6″ from the edge and 1″ above the bias strip. Fold the unfinished ends under so that they are not seen. Make little tabs for attaching the D-rings to the bag. I used two scrap pieces that were about 7″ x 3″ and two batting pieces that were 7″ x 1 1/2″. Sew right sides of fabric together to make a tube. Turn right sides out. Iron flat.Pull fabric through D-ring. Pin D-rings in place. I placed one tab 2″ in from the edge and 1″ above the bias strip (that is covering the zipper) that is on the left side of the bag. Then the other tab I placed 2″ in from the edge and 1″ above the bias strip that is on the right side. Remember to fold under once to cover up the unfinished edge. Refer to pictures below if you are a little confused on where I placed them.Sew handles and D-rings  in place. Sew once down low and then up a little higher so that you really cover up those unfinished edges and give the handles a little more strength. Set aside.Gather the other 6″ x 3″ piece of fabric that you made into a bias strip. Again pin over the hanger flap like before. Sew in place as close to the edge as possible. Now we are going to sew the front of the bag and the back of the bag together.Start by laying the front piece of the bag right side up.Now lay the zippered piece of the bag on top. Right sides are together. Make sure that the hanger flaps are on the same sides and line up evenly. Pin all around outer edges. Sew.Turn right side. Iron. Bag should now look like this. Now turn bag back to wrong side out.Gather your last 35″ x 22″ piece of interior fabric and pin rights sides together with the interior fabric strip. Sew outer edge while leaving a good 6″ opening for turning right sides out.Pull right sides out through opening. Sew opening shut.Turn bag front side out. Press bag edges. Now you just need to stitch the two bags together near the hanger flaps. You do not want any unfinished edges. Plus this will give a little more stability to the bag where the hangers will be.Pin edges together around opening.Sew as close the edges as possible.Lastly all you need to do is add a snap or velcro to keep the hanger flaps shut when in travel. Clip shoulder strap on.And that is it folks…your finally finished! I know it was a long tutorial and took a long time. But wasn’t it worth it? You will definitely have the cutest garment bag in the whole airport!The bag holds about 4 wooden coat hangers comfortably. You could definately carry more clothes in the bag if you used some wire hangers  though. You may want to bring along a little piece of string to tie the top of the hangers together while traveling.  Or if you want to get really stylish you could make a bias strip out of fabric and attach it to the top/inside of the bag for tying those hangers in place. Again, it’s your bag…do want you want!

Fat Quarter Friday {Wrapping Paper Organizer Tutorial}

I’m so excited about today’s Fat Quarter Friday project. Like, I’m mildly obsessed with it, seriously! It just may be my most favorite thing I have ever made. See, I have been wanting a wrapping station for like… well, for forever. But all the ones I have wanted are just way too pricey for me. So the other day when I was reading my Flea Market Style magazine I saw the most in-genius wrapping paper bin made from an old wooden kitchen stool. Oh yes, I was in LOVE with this idea! It is cheap, practical, and oh so cute! I really should have taken a picture of the stool for you, but truly you should all just go and buy this magazine. It is great! I hardly buy magazines these days, but this one is always a must!So basically their wrapping paper bin was an old kitchen stool turned upside down. On the bottom of the seat part they added casters so that it could easily roll around. Inside of the stool they placed a bag made from fabric to hold all of the wrapping paper. Then they added some little S-hooks to the rungs of the stool to hold scissors in place. Yes, their idea was simply brilliant! BRILLIANT! So I came up with my own design inspired by their wrapping paper bin. My wrapping paper organizer fits my needs perfectly and hope it will fit your wrapping needs as well or at least inspire you to make one that will fit your needs. So enough explaining about this wrapping paper organizer, lets make one!

Wrapping Paper Organizer Tutorial

(allow 2+ hours to make)

Materials Needed:

* Kitchen stool. Keep your eyes open for one at the thrift store or yard sales. I used a stool we had but were no longer using. I actually bought it a few years ago at Walmart for about $20.  

* Fabric: To make two larger bags and two smaller bags like I did you are going to need about 2 1/2 yards of fabric or one $5 twin flat sheet from Walmart. Of course you will need more fabric depending on the size of your stool and the design of your fabric chosen. Read below to see how to determine the amount of fabric needed.

* 4 Casters. You can buy these at any hardware store.

* 2 packages of bias tape or about 4 yards of homemade bias tape. (Of course you could use ribbon as well.) And really the amount needed depends on how long your want your ties to be.

My stool was a light colored wood that I no longer like so I sprayed it white. Now here is how you determine how much fabric you are going to need. Take and lay your stool on its side. Measure from right under the seat part to the bottom of the last rung. Mine measured 18″ long. Now measure the length between the legs at the widest part of the legs. Mine measured 12″ at the widest part. Another way to measure is to lay a piece of fabric down on the table and then lay the stool (on it’s side) on top of that piece of fabric. Then trace onto the fabric right under the seat and then trace on the bottom of the last rung. Then trace on the outer edges of the legs of the stool. Confused? It’s actually really easy and once you see the second picture below you will totally understand what I mean. See the piece of fabric below? This is the piece that I traced out and cut. You are going to want to cut out a piece of fabric like so as well. Now you are going to need 4 pieces cut like so to make one bag. Which means you are going to need 12 pieces the same exact size to make a gift wrapping organizer just like mine. So measure your piece of fabric or use your measurements to determine the amount of fabric needed. I actually used a $5 sheet from Walmart, but by my calculations I came up with about 2 1/2 yards needed per stool for a stool my size. But to be certain, do the math yourself by your measurements.Cut out your 12 pieces of fabric per your measurements. Take two pieces of fabric and sew right sides together on the sides and the bottom. Leave the top (widest part of bag) open. See picture below.Now you want to square off the edges to give the bag shape. To do this, fold your bag out like shown below.  Now measure in about 1 1/2″ from the tip of the bag. Draw a line across. Sew on the lines you just drew.Trim off the excess fabric.Now your bag has shape. Make 3 more bags like you just did. You will want a total of 4 bags with 4 pieces of fabric left over. The remaining 4 pieces will be cut later to make the smaller bags.Now gather your bias tape.You are going to cut your bias tape or ribbons to the length that you want your ties to be. I cut 6 pieces of bias tape 24″ long. Now top stitch your bias tape shut.Measure in 2″ from the edge of your bag on both sides. This is where you will want to attach your bias tape. Fold bias tape in half. Place folded part of bias tape on top of marks and tack in place. Now take one of your bags and turn it wrong side out. Place right side out bag that has ties inside. Pin both bags together at top.Sew around top while leaving an opening for turning right sides out.Turn bag right side out through opening.Press and top stitch around top edge.Now tie the bag onto the stool.Repeat with the other two bags.Now gather the remaining 4 pieces of fabric and fold in half like below. Cut on folded edge.Now you have 4 pieces of fabric in two different sizes. 4 smaller pieces and 4 bigger pieces. The two different sizes will give you the two different sized bags. So just like before, you are going to make 2 bags from the four pieces of fabric. Just make sure you are sewing the same sized pieces together.

Attach all of the bags to the stool and attach your 4 casters to the seat of the stool. Space them out evenly on the edges of seat.Now gather all of your wrapping supplies and start filling those bags.Use the rungs of the stool without a bag to store your folded tissue paper on.Place your wrapping paper in the middle.Use the smaller pockets to hold your siscors, tape, hole punch, cards, tags, pens, markers or any of your smaller items.And use the larger pockets to hold your ribbons, boxes or bags.

So what do you think? LOVE it?I know I do! Big Thanks to Flea Market Style for the great idea!*Just remember all of my tutorials are for PERSONAL use only! Please feel free to use any of my pictures, just link back and give credit where credit is due, thanks!*

How to make Teggings {tutorial}

So we have all heard of leggings and jeggings, but teggings? I will be honest, I thought I created this design and term, but it seems as though teggings are a real thing, at least for women. I know because I googled it. It’s funny how we always think we have come up with the newest and greatest idea only to find out someone else has already thought of it. So anyways, I still love the idea of these. Turn all those too short, outgrown tights into leggings…I mean Teggings! Plus, I don’t know about you but I have a ton of kids tights with stained feet and really they are going to be too small come next winter to be worn again anyways. So why not turn those tights into teggings?!

Teggings Tutorial
(Beginner level: takes about 5 minutes to make one pair)

Materials Needed:

* 1 pair of worn or slightly outgrown tights or you can use new tights.
First I am going to show you how I made one pair of teggings using two pairs of tights. I had a few pairs of tights that were too short but had really cute designs on them that I didn’t want to get rid of so I used two pairs of tights to make one pair of Teggings. Start by cutting off the feet right about the heel. Now cut at the top of the design. I think mine was about 6 inches long once cut. Take another pair of tights that were either too short or had holes in those toes and cut off the bottom of the feet about 3 or so inches above the heel. Take the cut piece from the decorated tights and fold wrong sides together. Make sure cut edges line up. Slide the cut part of tights into the folded decorated piece. Pin. Zig-zag or serge edges. Fold down and that is it. A new pair of Teggings! Now to make a pair of Teggings from one pair of tights. Take your pair of tights and cut like so. I cut my hemmed piece about 4″ long. You can cut it longer or shorter. It’s your choice here. Discard the toes and fold the hemmed piece in half with wrong sides facing. Again slide tights inside. Make sure all the edges line up. Pin in place. Zig-zag or serge. And there you have it…another pair of Teggins! They are so quick and easy to make. I made a bunch of these within 30 minutes. Tights that were headed for the trash, now have a new and fun use…gotta love that!




Top 11 crafts from 2011

Here are the top 11 most visited crafts from 2011.

How to make ice cream in a baggie

Organizing Tote Basket

How to make butter in a canning jar

Shopping List and Coupon Organizer

Baby Basket Cake

Round Nesting Baskets

Beach Comber Bag

Ruffled Wristlet

Baby Doll Diapers and Wipes Case

Homemade cupcake liners

Ruffled Maxi Skirt

And my most favorite craft in 2011 was definitely these one eyed one horned flying purple people eater costumes that I made for each of the kiddo’s.

Thanks to all, of my readers, I have reached a huge milestone with this blog. I have now had over 1,500,000 visits. WOW, how in the world did that happen?! I have been featured on some amazing blogs this year and even made it to the blog of Glamour Magazine (screech!). I’m so honored to have people enjoying my crafts and ideas as much I love sharing them.
I hope this year brings more crafty ideas to share with all of you and Fat Quarter Fridays makes an appearance again some time really soon. I have missed my quick little sewing projects.

Embellished Onesies {Tutorial}

I’m still trying to finish up all of the tutorials for the baby basket cake. It is taking me a bit longer then expected, but luckily there is only one more to finish up. Once they are all finished I plan on doing a FAQ and a round up where I will link all of the tutorials in one spot. Then in the next month or so I’m looking forward to getting back to posting my weekly tutorials for Fat Quarter Friday. I have missed making those quick little projects and hopefully this will give me a head start on all those Christmas gifts on my list.
Embellished Onesies Tutorial
(allow 1 hour per dress)

We are going to start by making the little polka dot dress, but all of the embellished onesie require the same materials, just different amounts of fabric. I didn’t keep track of the exact measurements while putting the tutorials together so you are going to have to trust your own judgement and make it how you like it. I’m going to show you just a basic way of putting these together. Remember there is no right or wrong way to do it.

Materials Needed:

*Onesies (any size works)

*Large scraps of knit fabric about 30″ long and about 6 ” wide (these are the measurements I used for a newborn onesie. You will need more material if you are working with a larger sized onesie.)

*Smaller scraps for making the flowers and for the ruffles on the backside.

Start by measuring the distance around the onesie where you will be attaching the skirt on. I like to attach the skirt about 2″ above the top hem on the buttoned part of the onesies, but you can attach it wherever you would like. Now take your marking pen and draw a straight line around the front and back of the onesie where you want your skirt to be attached.

Measure the distance around the onesie where you made your straight line. Add 1 1/2 times to that measurement or even double it. Now cut your piece of fabric the distance just determined by the desired length. I like to cut mine about 5″ long. But again you can cut it whatever length you want. and if you cut it too long in the beginning you can always trim it down a bit later.

Now sew the two ends together with right sides facing. Sew all around the top edge and make it ruffle.

Pin the dress on so that the right side is right side with the onesie and the ruffled edge is lined up with the line you drew onto the onesie.

Sew skirt in place using a a zig-zag stitch. I like to slightly stretch the onesie while sewing the skirt on to give a little extra room for stretching.

Now take a little scrap piece of fabric about 16″ x 1 1/2″. Sew on the top edge to ruffle it.

Pin in place on the top of the onesie like so. Only make one complete circle with the ruffled piece right now.

Sew in place on the ruffled edge.

Keep wrapping the ruffled piece in the shape of a circle while sewing it as you go. Don’t worry about making it look too perfect.

Cut out some little circles to cover up the stitches in the middle and sew in place.

And there you have a cute little embellished onesie that only took a few minutes to make. Now for the next onesie all I did was cut out a little piece of fabric and sew it to the front of the onesie.

Then use a scrap piece of fabric that is 1 1/2 times the length of the back side of the onesies. Ruffle the fabric then zig-zag stitch the ruffled piece onto the backside of the onesies. Extremely simple, but so fun to do.

For the teal dress I made it just like the pink polka dot dress above but this time I cut the two pieces of fabric different lengths to give the skirt a little different look.

Cut one of the pieces about 1 1/2″ to 2″ wider then the other piece of fabric.

Sew edges together like on the first dress. Ruffle the top edge of both pieces of fabric.

Pin the two pieces of fabric together and repeat the same steps as above with the pink polka dot dress.




For the last and my most favorite embellished onesie I wanted to keep it simple with a big pink flower on the front and a cute little ruffle on the backside.

Cut out some flowers. I used two different colored fabrics for these but you can use whatever you have on hand.

Just pin your flowers in place and sew like below.

Then add the centers of the flowers.

Add a cute little ruffled piece to the backside.

So there you have some fun and easy ways to embellish those plain white onesies.

Ruffled Baby Lovey {Tutorial}

Moving on with the last of the baby basket tutorials, today I’m showing you how I made this cute little ruffled baby lovey. These are becoming one of my favorite blankets to make. They are the perfect size for the car seat, stroller or for baby to hold and snuggle up to. They are super easy to make and take just a few hours to put together. This is one of those projects that uses up those little but long scraps or you can use a fat quarter pieced together.

Ruffled Baby Lovey Tutorial

(allow 2+ hours to complete)

Materials Needed (cut to the following):
*Long strips of cotton fabric that are 30″ x 3″ or use fat quarters and piece them together to make a 30″ x 3″ strip. I used four different fabrics, but you can use as many different fabrics as you want.

*One strip of cotton fabric that is 120″ x 5″ (ruffled edge). Again, you can use smaller scraps pieced together to make one long strip.

*One piece of minky fabric about 21″ x 24″.

Start by making sure you have the 8 strips cut out to the size of 30″ x 3″.

Take one of your strips and sew down the middle and make it ruffle with your sewing machine. This is a new little trick I just learned from the gals over at Simple Simon & Co. Set the tension on your machine to the highest setting and the stitch length to the highest setting. Trust me, once you ruffle your fabric this way you will never pull a thread to make it ruffle again. It is so much quicker! And looks neater and the ruffles are more uniform. But of course you can ruffle your fabric the other way by just pulling one of the threads to make it ruffle. By doing it this way you can get a more ruffled piece of fabric then just ruffling it with your machine. So its up to you here.

Repeat with the other 7 strips of fabric.

Take your iron and gently press on top of the ruffled pieces to press them flat. This will make it easier to sew together.

Now lay out the ruffled pieces into the desired pattern.

With right sides facing pin together the two fabrics that are beside one another. Sew in place. Unfold and gently press flat.

Lay your fabric pieces out again to make sure you keep the fabrics in the right order.

Pin the next two rows together and sew. Just make sure you are sewing on the correct side so that your fabrics line up correctly.

Press flat. Pin and sew the two last pieces of fabric together. Now you have the top of your lovey.

Press flat again.

Trim off any loose threads and neaten it up on the backside.

You should have this now.

Take your seam ripper and pull out the threads in the middle of the ruffled pieces.

Use the back of your seam ripper or an iron to fluff out those little marks down the center of the ruffled pieces.

Square up your edges and make sure they are straight.

Round the corners.

Top stitch if you want.

I just used the edge of my foot as a guide and top stitched both sides of each fabric.

Take your 120″ x 5 ” piece of fabric and fold wrong sides together. Sew all the way down the open edge of the piece to make a ruffled piece. **Make sure you use a 1/4″ sew seam here.**

Take the ruffled piece and pin it all the way around the top of the blanket. Where the two unfinished edges line up just fold each of the unfinished edges in opposite directions. Then place one on top of the other with the folded edges touching and sew in place. That way you will have a finished edge that is quick to do.

Now place on top of minky fabric with right sides facing. Place a few more pins in. I know this is a lot of pins, but it does make a huge difference.

Sew around outer edge with a 1/2″ sew seam while leaving at least a 2″ opening for turning right sides out.

Trim excess fabric.

Be careful of all the pins and turn right side out. Iron and sew opening shut.

Trim off all of the little threads.

And that is it! One cute little lovey for the baby!


Baby Basket Cake Bunting {Tutorial}


Baby Basket Cake Bunting Tutorial
(allow 1/2 hour to an hour)
Materials Needed:

*small fabric scraps
*1 package of bias tape or make your own

I used only 3/4 of a yard when making my bunting but you can make yours longer depending on how long you want it to be. I think it would be super cute to drape it around each of the tiers instead of just the bottom basket like I did. Once you have decided how long you want your bunting to be, top stitch the bias tape the entire length. Take and cut up your small scraps into all different sized circles, flower shapes and squares.

Layer the different sized pieces on top of each other to make the desired designs. Sew in place onto the bias tape.

Add as many circles and flowers that you want. Have fun with it!

Not only with it add a little extra special touch to the baby basket cake, it will also look so cute hanging in the nursery afterwards.

Flower Lovey {Tutorial}

It’s funny because when I first started making the baby basket cake I planned on making a few baby balls and little toys to stuff in the top tier, but once I made this sweet little flower lovey I knew that it was going to be on the top of the cake! I think it just works perfectly up there!

 

Flower Lovey Tutorial
(allow 2+ hours to complete. Finished size: 18″ x 13″)


Materials Needed:
* 1 package of bias tape
* 1 piece of fabric 18″ x 13″ (front of lovey)
* 1 piece of minky fabric 18″ x 13″ (back of lovey)
* 1 fat quarter or small scrap pieces of fabric (for the flower)
* 1 package of piping
* 1 large button
* 12″ of jumbo ric-rac
* One 46″ x 3″ piece of fabric for the ruffled piece. (I ended up piecing a few pieces together to make one long strip. Use up those little scraps here. You will never know it is pieced together once it is ruffled.)

Start by printing off the template. Click on the highlighted link below. Print template off there. I used the pointy flower petals for this tutorial but wanted to include some rounded petals as well. I foresee using these in the future.

Flower Baby Lovey Template

Cut out the template petal piece. Trace around it onto the right side of a small scrap piece of fabric.

Now take a piece of piping and line up the flat edge of the piping to the template marks you just made. Pin in place. The more pins the better!

Place another piece of fabric on top with right sides facing. Pin in place.

Change to a zipper foot and start sewing around the piping. Line up the rounded edge of the piping with the edge of your foot. Sew as close to the rounded edge of the piping as close as possible. You may need to redo the top part of the petals once you remove the pins. I also found it easier to remove the pins as I went along. Just take your time here. Once you get the hang of it, it is easy. You could also sew the piping in place on the first piece of fabric before placing the second piece of fabric on top. I just chose to sew the piping in place once. But do what works for you.

Trim off the excess fabric.

Turn right side out.

Now repeat 6 times or as many times as you want. Of course you could leave out the piping if you don’t like sewing with it. It takes a little getting used to, but once you have used it a few times its really easy and adds that little extra touch.

Now fold the petal in half and sew a little 1/2 circle at the edge of the petal like shown below. This will give your petal a little shape.

Repeat with remaining petals. Line up the petals to make a flower.

Play with the petals and your button to get the shape you like. My flower ends up being about 6″ across.

Now pin the flower petals onto your front piece of fabric.

Sew around the inner parts of the petals a few times. Make sure they are very secure, this is for a baby.

In the following steps the fabric is getting harder to sew because of the thickness. If that happens switch your foot height to zero. This will keep your foot off the fabric so tightly and allow you to keep sewing. This will make a huge difference, trust me.

Take your jumbo ric-rac and fold in onto the petals. Pin in place.

Sew in place a few times. Make sure all of the pieces get sewn down.

Sew button on. Then sew around the button again using the edge of the button as your guide.

Now lets make the little ruffle. Take your 46″ x 3″ and fold right sides together, sew down one side. Pull right side out and iron flat. Sew down the middle of the strip on a stitch length of 4 then pull one of the threads to ruffle the fabric.

Pin and sew ruffle onto lovey in desired location.

Pin front of lovey to backing fabric, wrong sides together. You can use a batting if you want to. I chose not to since this is for a little baby and I wanted to keep it lightweight for her to snuggle up with. Trim fabric pieces so that are even on all edges. Round the corners to make it easier to sew with the bias tape.

Pin and sew bias tape around outer edge of lovey.

And your finished!

Fold up the blanket and stuff it into the top tier of the basket making sure to leave the flower hanging out on top of the basket.

Knit Baby Hats {Tutorial}

Knit Baby Hats Tutorial

(allow 15-30 minutes to complete one hat)

Materials Needed:

*Small pieces of knit fabric or use outgrown baby clothes.

*Small pieces of contrasting knit fabric for the flower or a 30″ x 1/2″ piece of fabric for the ruffle.

*Buttons

Print off the templates below. Make sure you click on the highlighted link and print the template off from the Scribd website. Tape the two pieces of paper together making sure that the lines match up perfectly. Trim extra paper if needed to match up the lines.
Knit baby hat template 1

Knit baby hat template 2

Use the template to cut out two pieces of knit fabric.

Pin right sides together. Sew around edges leaving the bottom open.

Trim edges. Searge edges if you want, but you don’t have to. Knit fabric will not fray. Searging just gives it a more professional look. I don’t have a searger, so I left mine as is. Fold the hat in half to find the middle. Measure 2″ down from the top of the hat. Draw a line. Repeat on the other side of hat.

Now refold the top of the hat so that the marks you just made are on the outer edge. Pin in place like so. You are now going to sew on top of the marks you just made. I sewed using a 1/4″ sew seam here. You are sewing here just to give the hat a little more shape.

This is what the hat will look like now.

**What you do in the next step depends on the size of the hat you are making.**

If you are making a 0-6 month hat fold the bottom of the hat up 1 1/2″

for a 6-12 month hat fold the bottom of the hat up 2″

and for a 12-24 month hat fold the bottom of the hat up 2″.

Since this a 0-6 month sized hat, I folded the bottom of the hat up 1 1/2″.

Press and pin in place. Sew.

Turn right side out.

To make the flower cut 7 pieces of knit fabric into little circles.

Set up the circles overlapping like so. Just make sure that the middle circle is overlapping all of the other circles (petals) in the middle.

Pin in place.

Sew.

Make a button or use a button you have on hand.

Attach the button to the petals and through the top of the hat.

Inside of hat.

And the finished product.

.

Now to make the ruffled knit hat.

Follow the same steps as above to make the hat. Cut a strip of knit fabric 30″ x 1 1/2″ wide. Sew ends together. Now ruffle the piece of fabric with your sewing machine. Work with the ruffled piece until it is the same length as the distance around your hat. Pin ruffle around hat about 1/4″ or 1/2″ up from the bottom of hat. Zig-Zag stitch ruffle in place. Attach a little button on the top of hat if you want.

And that is it.

They are so quick and easy to make you will never buy a knit hat again.

Plus it is a great way to use up those outgrown baby clothes.

Baby Wash Cloths {Tutorial}

So moving right along with our little baby basket cake…
Today I am going to show you how to make the little baby wash cloths. These wash cloths are by far the most used item in our household that I make. I just love them! For the tub I make them with a minky backing and for the kitchen I use a terry cloth backing. When making these for a baby or myself, I don’t usually add a flannel batting. You know, little wash cloths and little baby parts just go together better. But some people prefer a thicker wash cloth and that is fine, just use flannel as your batting. This is a great beginner project! So those of you that want to start sewing, then this is the one to start with. So grab that machine and some fabric and lets get sewing!
Baby Wash Cloths (8″ x 8″) Tutorial
(allow 15 minutes to complete)

Materials Needed:

*Small scraps of cotton fabric and minky about 9″ x 9″.

*Flannel scraps 9″ x 9″ to use for batting (optional). I prefer to make my wash cloths without the flannel just because my kiddo’s are little and they prefer little lighter weight wash cloths for their hands.

*Card stock to make an 8″ x 8″ template with rounded corners.

Trace around the template onto the wrong side of your cotton fabric.

Pin together the cotton fabric and minky fabric, right sides together. (If you are using flannel as a batting, layer it underneath the minky fabric now.) Sew directly on the marks while leaving a 1 1/2″ opening for turning right side out. Trim off excess fabric except at the opening.

Use your lint roller to remove any fuzzies and spray to remove your marks.

Turn right side out and iron flat. Top stitch around edge of wash cloth.


Pretty easy right?

Just in case you cannot tell by the photo, I made 15 of them. They are great to use in the tub, washing up after meal time or for cleaning those little heiny’s if you are a cloth diaper using momma.